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Wax drawing time?

  • 26 Mar 2022 4:56 PM
    Message # 12682225
    Anonymous

    I have a bunch of medium honey frames, undrawn plastic foundation. I don’t know when to put them on so they can be drawn out.

    I did a deep inspection on 3/24. The colonies seem to have come through winter in good shape. Took the dry sugar feeders off (they used but little) as they still have a lot of resources. Brood is building but there is lots of empty brood space.  No flow yet at 1100’, but maple, alder, and dandelion pollen going great.

    When should I think about putting the supers on for drawing out? Thanks!

  • 27 Mar 2022 9:36 AM
    Reply # 12682769 on 12682225
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    This will likely depend on the colony strength. Counting on a honey crop the first season may be optimistic. Mother Nature will decide, I'm not sure there is a long enough flow in our area. You need the colony strength to have the numbers to gather nectar WHEN it is available.

    When you get 7 or 8 frames of bees, then they are ready for another box.

    You can feed 1:1 but I would not overdo it as they will overfill the brood area with syrup and it's still too cool to dry it. They need the fuel to make the wax but you don't want a bunch of syrup in the honey comb. If they sock away syrup in the brood area pull the feed off. Fondant and pollen patty is the safer feed method this time of year. Apply patty in small quantities 1/4# per so it does not dry out or collect hive beetle larvae (yes we have beetles here).

    I would ease them into the next box using foam or frame feeders as spacers to the outside. Another option is to alternate foundation in the frames to steer comb building and break up the space.

    Melt some bees wax in a crock pot and use a roller to apply it 3 times to the frames/foundation to encourage comb building. (Hive & Garden has wax by the pound). So many folks clean frames, DRAWN COMB is the holy grail of bee keeping. Save that old comb the bees will clean it and re-use it right away. Best to dry out frames after extraction and store dry with light and ventilation, freezing will kill any moth larvae. Generally you will find the moth where pollen is stored though, less in honey comb.



    Last modified: 27 Mar 2022 6:57 PM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 27 Mar 2022 9:45 AM
    Reply # 12682772 on 12682225

    Hi Ken, great question! Basically the supers add space in the hive, and the bees should be interested to draw out the wax on the frames as they need more physical space as the colony numbers grow, which also theoretically parallels the available nectar resources in their forage zone. Bee numbers track food resources so more workers can get after the flowers. If both your deeps are pretty packed with bees, adding supers may help the bees to feel more space and slow or prevent swarming. My sense if that it may be a bit early to add supers where my own hives are located, but it all depends on your micro-location food resources. One other factor is what you are doing to treat mites, If you are using an an aromatic thymol type product such as Api Life Var, you don't want that stuff incorporated in your supers wax if you think you may harvest honey for human consumption as it may taint the honey. So be sure to complete any stinky kind of mite treatment and give a bit of airing out time after before putting on supers.

  • 27 Mar 2022 7:17 PM
    Reply # 12683196 on 12682225
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Deb has a great point there, regarding brood boxes.

    I was thinking you were just starting, don't know where that came from.

    If you are in double deeps for brood it may take some time for them to fill the upper and move back down to the lower. If the lower box is still empty I'd not be worried about risk of swarming. You did not say you rotated so I assume not, which is I believe best to let the bees manage their own space. The only time I would rotate is if there was Zero brood in the lower. This is because any brood in the lower will be at the top, and the brood in the upper will be below a cap of honey. So if you rotate and have brood in the lower you will isolate that brood in the top of the hive with stores between them and the main brood area.

    Once that second box is 3/4 full that would be the time to add a super. So have your gear ready.

    If you have a double deep and 2 full boxes (lots of brood) already you might consider working towards a small split for a resource hive or to sell. Do you have any drone brood yet?

    My very small colony finally woke up and it looks like they are growing maybe faster than I thought, I'm going to have to take inventory, should have done it today....


    Last modified: 27 Mar 2022 7:47 PM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 28 Mar 2022 8:21 AM
    Reply # 12683812 on 12682225
    Anonymous

    Thanks Debbie. I will hold off on supers as the deeps are not 70%. Supers have melted wax on them so I will hope for the best. These colonies drew zero comb last season (3 DOA pkgs and a TVBA nuc made for a very late start). But, they did survive! I plan to put Formic Pro on for the 14 day treatment, starting today. 

    There are pretty good numbers on 3-4 frames in each bottom deep, with one exception. Lots of worker bees now so there must be a laying Queen? Growing brood numbers on those occupied frames. Foragers bringing pollen but I see no work repairing some damaged comb.

    As I mentioned, Rick, I did swap deeps on one colony. The bottom was completely empty and the top packed with resources and some brood. I guess I don’t know how to differentiate drone brood from worker brood. There were worker bees on the frames and bringing pollen so, again, I assume a laying queen. Larvae is present in all colonies. Thanks.

    Ken

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