I also recommend using used equipment for Swarm Traps.
Ideally, you want about ~10 Gallons (40L) with a 1.5-2' entrance per Dr. Seeley.
|
Hive Body
|
Type Volume (Liters)
|
Volume (Gallons)
|
|
Deep (10-frame)
|
40.1
|
10.6
|
|
Medium (10-frame)
|
29.1
|
7.7
|
|
Shallow (10-frame)
|
25.8
|
6.8
|
|
Hive Body
|
Type Volume (Liters)
|
Volume (Gallons)
|
|
Deep (8-frame)
|
32.2
|
8.5
|
|
Medium (8-frame)
|
23.4
|
6.2
|
|
Shallow (8-frame)
|
20.7
|
5.5
|
You can stack hive bodies to combine to get in the range of ideal volumes
For this reason, I try to find and keep used 10-frame deeps and then move any bees caught over to 8-frame mediums for maintenance. Use a single used Medium Frame (brood preferably) as bait. I've also used 2 Medium 8-Frames stacked. Maybe a little bit of Swarm commander on a towel inside kept in a plastic bag.
Using normal bee equipment means that if you don't check the trap frequently things aren't as likely to get away from you if your spreading them around town and don't get to them well after they have moved in. Maybe you'll get luck and they will only build on the one frame you gave them. But at least you'll be able to "easily" take the hive apart and try and save any comb they build on the roof. Search the internet for the many ways to try and move "wild" comb into Langstroth Frames.
I used to dabble with making my own traps and I wanted to make them cheaply as possible. Attached is my design for such using a 4'x8' sheet of 1/4" plywood (accounting for saw kerf). Note the internal dimensions (19.5" x 11.875" x 10.88" 10.9G/41.3L) are just big enough for the width of a frame but not the ears that normally hang the frame. What is not pictured in the design is a couple of cut-outs at the top that are just big enough for the frames ears. Make the tolerances close as you don't want any light to enter.
Happy Trapping...